Cocoa Bean Varieties: Unlocking the World’s Flavours
Every fine chocolate bar has at its origin the cocoa bean – the seed of the Theobroma Cacao tree, which translates to “food of the gods” [1]. Cocoa bean varieties are heavily correlated with flavour profiles of chocolate. In the same way that grape varieties determine a lot of wine nuances, a cocoa bean variety fundamentally impacts the chocolate flavour profile. Understanding these varying genetic groups is critical to exploring the full universe of chocolate flavour and aroma possibilities!
The Journey of Flavour Development
Cocoa bean’s possess their own genetic markers, which support flavours common to all methods of chocolate discovery or experience; however, cocoa beans in their whole state are “chocolatey.” With influences from terroir (the unique environmental characteristics of where it is grown) and also expert post-harvest processing (especially fermentation and roasting), all of these help create the final display of flavours that are found in your bar.
With this information on cocoa varieties, we will take you around the world of cocoa varieties with their equally wide and wild flavours.
The “Noble” Bean: Criollo
Origin & Characteristics: Hailing primarily from Central and South America, particularly Venezuela, Mexico, and Central America, Criollo (“native” in Spanish) is the rarest and historically most prized of all cocoa varieties [2]. It represents less than 5% of global cocoa production today [3]. Criollo trees are delicate and highly susceptible to disease, making them challenging to cultivate [2].
Appearance: Criollo pods are typically rough, warty, with deep furrows, and can be red or yellow [4]. The beans themselves are large, plump, and often pale white to light purple inside [2].
Criollo Flavour Profile:
This is where the Criollo variety shines. Criollo chocolate is well-known for its delicate, complex and aromatic flavour profile including:
- Low Bitterness: Typically very low astringency or classic “chocolatey” bitterness.
- Nuanced Notes: Prominent notes of caramel, nuts (almond, hazelnut), vanilla, dried fruit, and sometimes even subtle mushroom or tobacco undertones [2].
- Gentle Acidity: Sometimes with a mild, pleasant acidity.
Criollo Notable Sub-varieties/Types:
- Porcelana: An extremely rare and highly prized Criollo sub-variety from Venezuela, known for its exceptionally delicate flavour and porcelain-white beans.
- Chuncho: A Criollo-type bean from Peru, celebrated for its floral and fruity notes, often cultivated by indigenous communities [2].
The “Workhorse” Bean: Forastero
Origin & Characteristics: Dominating the world’s cocoa production, Forastero (“foreigner” or “outsider” in Spanish) accounts for over 80% of the global supply, primarily grown in West Africa (e.g., Ghana, Ivory Coast) and Brazil. These trees are hardy, disease-resistant, and yield abundantly, making them the backbone of mass-produced chocolate [3].
Appearance: Forastero pods are typically smoother, rounder, and often yellow when ripe. The beans are generally smaller, flatter, and a deep purple colour, indicative of their higher tannin content.
Forastero Flavour Profile:
Forastero is known for its robust, classic, and often more straightforward “chocolatey” flavour [1]. While less nuanced than Criollo, its profile can be rich and satisfying:
- Higher Bitterness/Astringency: Often more bitter and astringent notes.
- Earthy/Nutty Notes: Strong cocoa flavour, sometimes with earthy, nutty, or woody undertones.
- Less Complexity: Generally fewer distinct fruit or floral notes compared to Criollo.
Forastero Notable Sub-varieties/Clones:
- Amelonado: A common, high-yielding Forastero type, widely cultivated in West Africa. [3]
- CCN-51: A high-yielding clone developed in Ecuador, known for its disease resistance and high fat content, though often criticised by fine chocolate makers for its less complex, sometimes rubbery, flavour profile.
The “Hybrid” Bean: Trinitario
Origin & Characteristics: As its name suggests (originating from Trinidad), Trinitario is a natural hybrid of Criollo and Forastero varieties [2]. It combines the hardiness and higher yields of Forastero with some of the finer flavour characteristics of Criollo, making it a popular choice for fine flavour cocoa production. It accounts for about 10-15% of global production [3].
Appearance: Trinitario pods and beans show a wide range of characteristics, inheriting traits from both parent types [4] Beans are typically brownish-purple.
Trinitario Flavour Profile:
Trinitario’s flavour is diverse and often offers a balance of classic cocoa notes with more complex aromatic undertones:
- Balanced Bitterness: A more moderate bitterness than pure Forastero.
- Complex Notes: Often exhibits notes of fruit (red berries, citrus), nuts, spices, and sometimes even floral or woody notes, depending on the specific hybrid and terroir [2].
- Good Versatility: Its balanced profile makes it highly versatile for various chocolate applications.
Beyond the Big Three: Emerging & Specialised Varieties
While Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario form the foundational classifications, the world of cocoa genetics is far richer and more complex. Modern genetic profiling and a renewed focus on biodiversity have led to the recognition and rediscovery of many unique regional types and clones that are challenging traditional classifications.
- Nacional / Arriba (Ecuador): Once thought to be a type of Forastero, genetic analysis has revealed Nacional (often marketed as “Arriba” from Ecuador) to be a unique, highly sought-after cocoa type, now considered a distinct genetic cluster [5]. It’s famous for its intensely floral, nutty, and caramel notes, often described as having a distinctive “aroma Nacional.” [5].
- Beniano (Bolivia): A recently identified, potentially new genetic cluster found in wild Bolivian cacao. It offers distinct fruity and earthy notes.
- Marañón Canyon (Peru): A rediscovery of a unique, ultra-rare white-beaned Criollo-like variety found in isolated parts of Peru, prized for its exceptional fruitiness and low bitterness.
- Clonal Varieties: Beyond broad varieties, specific high-performing clones are also developed (like CCN-51 mentioned earlier, or various SCA/ICG clones) [3]. While some focus on yield and disease resistance, others are selected for superior flavour.
Why Varieties Matter to the Connoisseur
Understanding cocoa bean varieties is crucial for several reasons:
Flavour Prediction:
It provides a baseline expectation for the chocolate’s inherent flavour profile.
Appreciation of Terroir:
It highlights how the interaction between genetics and growing environment (terroir) creates unique characteristics.
Ethical Sourcing:
Many bean-to-bar makers champion specific varieties from small farms, often through Direct Trade relationships, to bring out their unique potential and support biodiversity [2].
Education:
It elevates your understanding from simply “dark” or “milk” to a nuanced appreciation of origin, genetics, and craftsmanship.
Explore more about chocolate’s journey and impact.
By exploring these diverse cocoa bean varieties, you embark on a truly global sensory adventure, recognising the extraordinary effort and natural wonder encapsulated in every bite of fine chocolate. The next time you pick up a bar, look beyond the percentage and ask: what bean is this, and what stories does its flavour tell?
Citations
- Minifie, B. W. (1989). Chocolate, Cocoa, and Confectionery: Science and Technology. Van Nostrand Reinhold.
- Presilla, M. E. (2009). The New Taste of Chocolate: A Cultural and Natural History of Cacao with Recipes. Ten Speed Press.
- ICCO (International Cocoa Organization). (n.d.). *Cocoa Varieties*. Retrieved from ICCO website.
- Moss, S. and Badenoch, A. (2015). Chocolate: A Global History. Reaktion Books.
- Motamayor, J. C., Lachenaud, P., da Silva e Mota, J. W., Loor, R., Kuhn, D. N., Brown, J. S., & Schnell, R. J. (2008). Geographic and Genetic Population Differentiation of the Amazonian Chocolate Tree (Theobroma cacao L). PLoS ONE, 3(10), e3311.